Before the Eagles

Before the Eagles. How Napoleon and the French Changed the Way Northern Italy Eats

This book (Before the Eagles) examines the culinary landscape of Northern Italy in the late 18th century, a time of impending transformation as French revolutionary forces drew near. It emphasizes the essential ingredients that defined the regional cuisines of Lombardy, Piedmont, Veneto, and Emilia, including polenta, Po Valley rice, cured meats, and cheeses such as Grana. During this period, the use of butter remained relatively limited in comparison to olive oil.
The narrative transitions to the effects of Napoleon's military campaigns in Italy beginning in 1796. It investigates how French troops requisitioned local resources-grains, livestock, and wine-thereby disrupting traditional supply chains and establishing new food distribution systems. This shift had significant implications for daily life and food accessibility.
The book then explores how Napoleonic governance reshaped agricultural practices through land reforms and the adoption of scientific methods. This more systematic approach to agriculture resulted in alterations in cultivation and consumption patterns. Butter gained prominence in certain regions as an indication of French influence, although it did not completely replace olive oil.
An intriguing segment addresses the culinary myth of Chicken Marengo-a dish purportedly created post-battle using local ingredients. This legend provides insight into the cultural interactions between French soldiers and Italian cooks during this volatile period.
Lastly, the book considers how these culinary trends affected various social classes as Napoleonic rule diminished the power of the aristocracy while elevating new societal groups, including merchants and military officers. Dining customs evolved from communal serving styles to more structured courses influenced by French dining etiquette. This book includes a chapter on personal stories, and ten authenticated recipes.